Shamban says that molecular size and weight, attributes, and benefits for some oils will help to balance skin and that some oils are actually good clarifiers. Others can strengthen the skin barrier, seal in moisture, and fight bacteria that can cause acne, she says. “There are plenty that can work for acne-prone skin, and others are the gentle, ideal carrier oils to the skin,” explains Shamban. “Rosemary, marula, hempseed, ylang-ylang, grape seed, camellia, sage, lavender, manuka, jojoba, sandalwood, tea tree, rose hip, sea buckthorn, evening primrose, tamanu, and squalane are all usually good choices.” The ones that should be avoided, she says, are mineral oil, coconut oil or a derivative, cocoa butter, and lanolins.
Another tip? She recommends prioritizing formulas with very few ingredients, but may blend in with and include retinol, salicylic, hyaluronic acid, or glycerine, as these can keep skin hydrated, balance and stop excess oil production, as well as prevent the skin cell buildup that causes clogging. Overall, Shamban says it’s best to go low and slow, which is what I’ve been doing.
I’ve started with mixing the oil with my moisturizer and spot treating—another suggestion from Shamban—by avoiding my nose and targeting the drier parts of my face, like my cheeks and forehead. While I’m still bummed that my skin is drier overall, I am happy that I finally got over my face-oil phobia. And even better? I haven’t broken out since.
